And the Western United States...

There are many delectable choices for diversion around the Bay Area.
Here are some of my very favorites: The Wine Country, Santa Cruz, Monterey, Carmel , Point Reyes and Jenner

Going to Santa Cruz is like stepping back into the wonderful, innocent and carefree happy days of the late '50's, early 60's, when everything seemed sunny and upbeat. The soundtrack would most certainly include a few songs from the Beach Boys, especially "Little Surfer Girl", "Catch a Wave" and "Warmth of the Sun". Appropriately, there is a surfing museum housed in a lighthouse on a bluff to the right of the Boardwalk. The Boardwalk (www.beachboardwalk.com)is lined with game arcades, beachwear boutiques, and places to buy something to eat. It's a popular place with everyone, especially families. On hot summer Friday nights under the stars, there are free musical concerts on the sandy beach featuring groups that had their heyday way back when, like Herman's Hermits, The Lovin' Spoonful and Jefferson Airplane. The roller-coaster is among the oldest wooden roller coasters in the world. My favorite ride is the Sky Glider, an open-seated gondola that moves slowly along the Boardwalk several yards high in the sky. It provides a great overview of the Boardwalk, the beach, the sea and the mountains in the distance.

The Santa Cruz Wharf (www.santacruzwharf.com)is just to the right of the Boardwalk and beach. It's always fun to walk to the end of the wharf and check in on the sea lions that live under the wharf. You can buy some fish scraps at the fish market there to toss down to the sea lions if you like. They tend to fascinate everyone with their languid lifestyle and almost dog-like yelps. There are a few excellent restaurants on the wharf, one to fit everyone's budget. My long-time favorite is Riva's. The views are fantastic: surfers in the distance, magnificent sailboats, pelicans, seagulls, sea lions, kayakers, paragliders, the deep blue sea framed by bluffs…beautiful! The food is secondary, but it is very good and imaginative, and reasonably priced.

Most people will be satisfied with just exploring the above-mentioned places in Santa Cruz. But you may find yourself wanting to explore Santa Cruz some more if you have the time and inclination, and there is a lot more to Santa Cruz than just the Boardwalk and Wharf.

Downtown Santa Cruz (www.downtownsantacruz.com)is an interesting place to explore. Here you might feel as if you are in a time warp somewhere around the late 60's. It's definitely got a sixties hippie feel to it. There are great bookstores, coffee houses, galleries, boutiques, restaurants, and night clubs, most famously, The Catalyst, where you can catch great musical acts for much less than you'd pay in San Francisco (www.catalystclub.com).

There are many great beach areas in Santa Cruz, some large, some small, tucked into picturesque inlets. Some of the beaches allow barbeques, and one beach (I can't remember now, but ask a local) is popular for having bonfires at night.

The Santa Cruz Shakespeare Festival (www.shakespearesantacruz.org)is also an excellent way to spend an evening under the stars. The stage is outdoors surrounded by tall redwoods. The acting is usually competent and entertaining.

Big Basin park nearby in the redwoods is very popular for hiking and camping, which are popular activities in these parts. Getting back to nature…it's good for the soul.

Another great way to spend some time in Santa Cruz in to rent or bring a bicycle and just bike it along the coast all the way to Capitola,(www.capitolachamber.com) a charming unique Venitian-style beach community with a great wharf, quaint shopping area, and lively restaurants and bars. You will be passing some of the most gorgeous scenery in the world, like at Heartbreak Point, which is also a popular surfing spot. I keep meaning to get around to painting that view! It's spectacular!

Monterey's famous for its Monterey Aquarium(www.mbayaq.org)and rightfully so. It is probably the best in the world, or certainly it is one of them.

One of the reasons I like to go to Monterey, which is about two hours south of San Francisco, is to kayak (www.montereykayaks.com). To me, it is by far the best place to kayak. First of all, it's so easy to rent a kayak there near the aquarium, for only about $50 a day or $30 for half a day. They throw in a mini-class on how to kayak and you're off to glide along the calm waters of Monterey Bay hoping an adorable sea otter or two will come close by and entertain you with their antics, and they usually don't disappoint. The key is that you must let them come to you, and by law, you must not intentionally try to get too close to the otter. After all, it is a wild, unpredictable animal with teeth and most of all, it must never feel harassed. These sea otters are still on the endangered species list, and are slowly making a comeback. I must admit, I have occasionally worried about the possibility of a great white shark taking a bite out of my kayak. However, while these fearsome creatures are fairly abundant off the coast of Monterey, they rarely venture into the bay, mostly because of the great forests of kelp below the surface of the water which impede their swimming. You will see many sea lions and sea birds. It's a meditative kind of experience.

There are also other fun things to do in Monterey, like go on a whale-watching trip, or a fishing trip or dine in one of the many excellent restaurants there.

Carmel
Although I haven't been to Carmel (www.carmel-california.com) for quite some time, it's a beautiful place to go. It's about a two and a half hour drive south of San Francisco. Head to Ocean Street for walking along the quaint tree-lined streets to explore the numerous shops and art galleries. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from, ranging from very reasonable to very expensive, depending on your mood and budget. Many of the fine restaurants offer "early bird specials". At the end of Ocean Street, there is a beautiful white sand beach lined with cypress trees. It's a perfect spot to sit and watch the sun set into the Pacific.

Perhaps Carmel's most famous resident is veteran actor Clint Eastwood, who once served as the town's mayor. He owns a popular restaurant and bar there called The Hog's Breath Inn. It's an enjoyable rustic place to go and at least sip a beer in the courtyard.

Not far from downtown Carmel-by-the Sea is the Mission San Carlos Borromeo del Rio Carmelo, otherwise known simply as Mission Carmel, (408-624-1813) which was founded in 1770. It's one of the most beautiful mission churches in California, and boasts an impressive garden as well. Mass is still conducted there.

If you want to take in some of the most breathtaking scenery in the world, go hiking at Point Lobos National Park,(www.montereybaycalifornia.com) in southern Carmel. The coastal scenes there where the craggy cliffs and rock pinnacles meet the ocean bring to mind the beautiful paintings by Monet of the Brittany coastline. There's one cove where the water is a spectacular shade of green and flows out to the deep azur blue of the Pacific Ocean. You'll see all kinds of marine birds as you hike along. It's one of the best scenic hikes in the world! Guaranteed!

A little more than an hour north of San Francisco, is the Point Reyes National Park, (www.pointreyes.net)an expansive stretch of land that encompasses farmland with grazing cows, beaches and what could be described as moors. In fact when I am there, I feel as if I am driving in some remote area of Scotland, as seen at the movies.

You need to allot a good part of the day for exploring it. Personally, I like driving through the vast expanse of open land, past the cows, horses and occasional deer to the beautiful beaches, but some people I know get antsy to see "something" and get weary of the driving. Like I said, I love it!

You should buy a map at the Bear Valley Visitor Center just west of Olema on Bear Valley Road (415-663-1092) to get your "bearings" (no pun intended). There's a self-guided hike of the 1906 earthquake faultline next to the visitors center, which is a good place to start exploring Point Reyes. Other points of interest include Drakes Beach, the lighthouse, McClure's Beach and much more.

My favorite spot is McClure's Beach. One reason is because as you turn the corner to head down to the McClure's Beach parking lot, chances are you will see a herd of majestic Tule Elk. The first time I noticed them in the distance, I thought they were rocks. But then they started to move! They are beautiful, large tawny-colored elk, with the males sporting impressive antlers. It's an amazing experience to see a huge male elk lifting it head high, sometimes with antlers strung with grassy sod and flowers as he vocalizes his mating calls in the oft fog-enshrouded moor surrounded by towering cypress trees. Something very primordial about it. Something very mystical, very mythical…

Walking down to the beach, you feel as if you are walking into a Monet painting. The beach invites you to explore the tidepools, and to walk along the surf or just to sit on the sand as you meditate on the crashing waves and the pelicans as they swoop down and fly in a row just inches about the surface of the water. You may see some sea lions frolicking in the surf. Some people shore fish here. But almost no one swims here, because the water is very cold, with treacherous currents and the extra-added deterrent of thriving populations of the awesome great white shark. While on the topic of predators, mountain lions are occasionally spotted in Point Reyes National Park, but it's very rare, and they tend to keep to themselves, being very secretive animals. Personally, I'd be thrilled to see one, at a distance of course!

You'll see a few places along the way to stop and eat, perhaps to sample some local oysters. My favorite place to dine after a trip to Point Reyes is The Pelican Inn (415-383-6000) in Muir Beach,(www.pelicaninn.com) on the way back, after driving south along Highway One with spectacular views of the ocean. Please keep at least one eye on the road! The Pelican Inn is a replica of a 16th century Tudor inn, and you certainly feel as if you are in an "Olde English" establishment as you go inside. As you enter, to your left will be the very traditional pub with walls hung with paintings, prints and photos of everything British, such as royalty and foxhunts. Imbibe a pint, play a game of darts, and if you like, you can have dinner later in the dining room lit with candlelight and a cozy fireplace. They serve traditional English fare, such as prime rib, beef Wellington, roast quail, duckling, chicken, etc., along with a nice wine list and tempting desserts. It's a great way to wind down a day of hiking and enjoying the great outdoors.

Where the Russian River Meets the Pacific Ocean

Jenner is a magical, mystical place on the gorgeous northern California coastline, perched high on the bank of the Russian River at the point where it merges with the Pacific Ocean. Very powerful, spiritual aura there, I tell you! Nature at its finest. It's only about one and a half to two hours or more north from San Francisco, depending on the traffic. It's nice to stop along the way at Bodega Bay and have a bite to eat while watching the fishing boats go by.

As if the magnificent natural beauty of the coastal scenery in Jenner weren't enough, there's the extra-added bonus of lots of wildlife in the area, most notably the harbor seals that rejuvenate themselves on the long sandbar at the mouth of the river. So, no, that's not a long line of logs or rocks…it's the harber seals soaking up the rays! And that extra huge log, that's an elephant seal peacefully hanging out with them! Overhead, sea gulls and pelicans soar by. Watching the sun set behind the dramatic rocks and sink slowly into the ocean while sitting on a big driftwood log on Goat Rock State Beach, the resting seals within view, seabirds soaring above you…well, it just doesn't get much better than that. Be sure to bring a jacket, as it can get windy, and a camera, as well as binoculars-- all the better to see the seals and not to disturb them.

The best place to stay is the Jenner Inn & Cottages. There are a variety of rooms and cottages to choose from, all reasonably priced, and all very charming. Some feature fireplaces, and private hot tubs with views of the river and ocean! Amenities include massage (about $70), yoga classes (about $12), complimentary breakfast and the dining room always has tea, coffee and home-made cookies available for the taking. There are a few very good restaurants and delis nearby as well.

Kayaks can be rented right across the street for only about $10 for the day. There are great hiking paths along the coast, especially right off the road leading to Goat Rock State Beach. The scenery is absolutely breathtaking. It's like walking into a Monet landscape painting.

The Jenner Inn is an ideal place to get away for a relaxing, restorative retreat to get back to nature, either by yourself, or with your significant other, and even with your kids. It is popular so try to book your reservation at least a few weeks in advance. Check out their website at www.jennerinn.com for more information and you can call 1-800-732-2377 to reserve your room or cottage. Enjoy your stay and namaste.

Sojourns in Southern California...

Hollywood Swinging

During the War on Iraq, March 23, 2003

I had always had the fantasy to be in Hollywood during the Academy Awards, and to crash some REAL Oscar parties. Swing with the REAL stars. I am really great at crashing events when I want to (having crashed some big-time parties and shaking hands and exchanging pleasantries with the likes of Jeremy Irons and Sarah Brightman) and so I figured this would be the ultimate challenge. However, crashing real Oscar parties during wartime is a challenge that ended up being seemingly insurmountable, even to ME and besides, I was really having such a great, therapeutic time with my new-found anti-war friends at the big anti-war protests just a block away from the Kodak Theatre where the Oscars were being held. The security measures the city and Academy took seemed ridiculously elaborate. I guess it at least gives them the illusion of security. Maybe it works. Whatever. If the US would just completely change its foreign policy in the Middle East from one of imperialistic aggression, hypocrisy and double standards, to supporting true justice for ALL regardless of religion, ethnicity, race or sex, we wouldn't have to deal with these spirit-dampening "security" measures in the first place. >: (

I stayed at the Holiday Inn Walk of Fame on North Highland Avenue, which was very reasonable for $109 a night, just a block up from the famed Hollywood Boulevard where the Kodak Theatre where the Academy Awards were held. As I drove in my rented silver Sebring convertible to my hotel, the excitement was literally abuzz in the air with helicopters covering both the anti-war rallies and the preparations for the Oscars ceremony for the news.

Hollywood has been given a very impressive makeover on the block of Hollywood Boulevard at North Highland. The ominously named "Babylon Court" (you know, Babylon was in Iraq!) was designed after an amazing and monumental stageset from the classic silent movie "Intolerance" by the great D.W. Griffith. Note to self: rent it! It's about five stories of shops and trendy restaurants and topped with almost frighteningly large elephants atop colossal columns, and they are actually just three quarter the size of the original stageset! The famous white letters spelling out HOLLYWOOD in the Hollywood Hills form the backdrop in the distance.

It was fun getting the official tour of the place, especially getting to watch the decorators dress up the entrance to the Kodak Theatre with massive, lush floral displays along with the golden Oscar statues.

Mixing new Hollywood with old Hollywood, I decided to have lunch at the famous Musso and Frank's which has been a fixture on the scene forever and feels like it too when you walk in there. It obviously has not been refurbished in eons, but I am sure that's exactly the way the long-time workers and their long-time clientele like it. Really, it's like stepping back in a time machine to go into such a place that almost reeks of days gone by. Another place that evoked a similar feeling of stepping back in time, to circa the 30's and 40's was the Roosevelt Hotel, with a very elegant, stately Old California Mission style ambiance, also on Hollywood Boulevard, and it was where the first Academy Awards Show was held and continued thereafter for decades. One can easily imagine the days when the legendary Hollywood stars such as Marilyn Monroe and Cary Grant were rubbing elbows there. Another place that evoked another historical era when the diner was the quintessential American dining experience was DuPars in the Farmers Market on Fairfax. It seems as if NOTHING has changed since its heyday the 1950's, except that it has that worn-in feel, like old blue jeans, and getting just a bit frayed at the edges. But it is so out of the ordinary and completely authentic, almost to the point of feeling like being in a living museum, that no one seems inclined to refurbish it anytime soon. And I am glad of that!

Although I didn't get to crash any Hollywood Oscar parties, I did manage to get a very interesting and congenial tour of The Magic Castle by the manager Kate Rosenstock. It's located at 7001 Franklin Avenue just a couple blocks up the hill from the Holiday Inn behind Babylon Court. This was a special treat that normally is denied to anyone who is not a member and a practicing magician, however, such privileges are sometimes the rewards of having a fun, travel-based website like San Francisco and Beyond.com!

The house is a very impressive turn-of-the-century Victorian gem, dramatically lit up at night. In keeping with the Old Hollywood theme that I was inexplicably drawn into on this particular trip, being in The Magic Castle magically transports its visitors back to the days of the Titanic, and many of the members of The Magic Castle apparently delight in dressing in period costume to heighten the time-warp dimensional experience. The Magic Castle offers fine dining and many rooms featuring a variety of magic shows, many by magicians trying out their new tricks of the trade. It's a uniquely fun place full of lavish flourishes and quirky touches, such as a stool at the bar that sinks so slowly that one doesn't notice until after a drink or two, causing the unsuspecting to think perhaps they've had one too many.

If you would like more information about The Magic Castle, their phone number is 323-851-3313 and their website is www.magiccastle.org. They also have a great gift shop.

This trip to Hollywood was short but very sweet. Los Angeles has so much to offer, from Venice Beach to Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills to the Sunset Strip, Hollywood, Santa Monica, shopping, dining, people-watching, fantastic art museums, nightclub hopping, that it's impossible to fit it all in a weekend! I guess I'll just have to keep going back for more fun in La La Land.

While some things do stay the same, like DuPars and Musso and Frank's, other things do change like the great new facelift that Hollywood Boulevard at Highland Ave. has gotten with it's Babylon Court, juxtaposed to the famous iconic unchanged Chinese Mann Theatre, and fronted by the Walk of Fame where you can look for your favorite stars' names underfoot. One could easily spend a couple of days just exploring these few blocks, which is exactly what I did, except for having a fantastic brunch at Clafoutis on the Sunset Strip, one of the best places for people-watching, while dining al fresco on delicious, but reasonably priced dishes under the umbrellas. And then there are the enticingly trendy tres chic shops to explore afterwards while walking off those indulgent calories.

Oo La La! Hurray for LA!

Checking out The Channel Islands, and Santa Barbara, too!

Many people are not aware of the wild Channel Islands, a chain of eight islands which are off the coast of Santa Barbara and Ventura in Southern California, with Santa Catalina Island further down off the coast from north of LA. It's really not a bad drive from the Bay Area, but it will take approximately 6 hours by Highway 101, which will take you through some real farm country along the way. Just turn up the radio and bring your favorite tapes or CDs and you can jam it all the way down. Road trips like this are about the only times I ever allow myself to have a Big Mac and french fries, so it's a bit of an added (guilty) indulgence.

Anyway, I have heard many divers say they absolutely adore the Channel Islands, and one diving enthusiast even told me it's his favorite diving spot, and he's been around the world, including to the Fiji Islands!

So, even though I am "just" a snorkeler, I decided it was high time for me to check out the Channel Islands for myself. I had planned on staying on a live-aboard boat with Truth Aquatics (www.truthaquatics.com) out of Santa Barbara, however, at almost the last minute, I was informed that not enough people had booked the trip so it was cancelled. Fortunately, they were kind enough to refer me to Island Packers (www.islandpackers.com) out of Ventura, where the Channel Islands National Park Visitor Center is, about a half-hour south of Santa Barbara. However they do not have live-aboard boats, so I had to book a room at a nearby hotel, the Pier Pont Inn, which was conveniently close.

It was a pleasant boat ride out to the island closest to the shore, twelve miles out and about an hour and a half away, which is Anacapa Island. Special features of the island are bird rookeries, tidepools, sea caves, arches, and abundant kelp forests underwater. We were let off at a dock, where we had to climb quite a few stairs to get to the plateau of the island for hiking and sightseeing above the water. My main goal was to snorkel and sightsee below the water's surface, so I donned my thick wetsuit (absolutely necessary), snorkel, mask and fins, and dove in right in. It was an "interesting" experience, but I guess I really prefer the warm water and exquisitely colored variety of marinelife in the tropics, such as the reefs of Cozumel, Mexico, for instance. BUT it was a different adventure to wrestle my way through the kelp forest, and occasionally spy the brilliant orange garibaldi fishes, the state fish of California, looking like very large goldfish. I saw a limited variety of other fish too, and stayed pretty close in to the rocky edges of the harbor.

Afterwards, I drove up to Santa Barbara, where I found myself in the middle of crowds of people milling about, as it just so happened to be "Fiesta Days", which lasts for several days in the beginning of August. Finally, I found my lovely hotel, Country Inn by the Sea at 128 Castillo Street, just a block away from the beautiful Santa Barbara Beach. It is a very welcoming, homey and charmingly decorated place, and I really appreciated the home-made chocolate chip cookies in the lobby! My well-appointed room was exceptionally comfortable and spacious, with a nice balcony. I loved the cheery French Provencal décor! Country Inn by the Sea at 1-800-455-4647 is just one of the several fine hotels operated by Inns by the Sea www.innsbythesea.com and Coastal Inns www.cacoastalinns.com. They also have hotels in Half Moon Bay, Santa Cruz, Capitola, Pacific Grove, and five in Carmel-by-the-Sea.

Santa Barbara, known as the American Riviera, has many charming attractions, including long, palm-tree-lined sandy beaches, Stearns Wharf, a lively downtown lined with endless restaurants, nightclubs and stores, many exuberant fiestas throughout the summer months featuring music and countless booths filled with arts and crafts, and of course, there is the beautiful Mission Santa Barbara, built in 1786. It just so happened that when I was exploring the Mission and its lovely gardens, a mass was about to commence so I attended, and it was a very pleasant experience. There were Mariachi musicians from Mexico singing and playing their traditional instruments, in coordination with the "Fiesta Days" theme. The priest served communion and wine from special crockery he had brought back from his trip to the church in Israel-Palestine where the miracle of the multiplying of the loaves of bread and fish happened with Christ, his disciples, and the throngs of followers.

Unfortunately, soon after mass, I had to head back up the coast, leaving much of Santa Barbara unexplored. Fortunately, it is not too far away from the Bay Area!

Scottsdale, Arizona Hotspot for the Hip at Heart

If you are in the Phoenix, Arizona area, and you want to make the scene at a very hip place, you will enjoy the people-watching and amenities at James Hotel in Scottsdale. At least, check out the J-Bar. It is reminiscent of the uber hip Delano Hotel in South Beach Miami. Cool music grooves, James Bond movie clips projected on the walls, spare moderne lighting and decor, and like I said, some top-notch people-watching opportunities, along with attentive and cheerful service--- what more could you want? Oh yes, and it's all priced reasonably too. There's a fun-filled pool area, gym and restaurant as well. Rooms feature heavenly fluffy beds (like sleeping on a cloud!), big flat-screen TVs, and colorful romper-room meets adult hipster decor. 7353 East Indain School Road, Scottsdale, AZ 85251 Phone: 1-888-500-8080 www,jameshotels.com

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