Micronesia and Hawaii
Facing a milestone birthday (hint: I was a screaming Beatlemaniac), I was determined to fulfill my childhood fantasy of going to some of the enchanted islands of the South Pacific. Maybe I was inspired by the first feature film I ever saw "South Pacific" which was re-made about a year ago starring Glenn Close. I still have the original vinyl soundtrack to "South Pacific", which features such classic songs as "Some Enchanted Evening" and "Bali Hai". I always wondered where the real "Bali Hai" was, "my own special island", and was told that it was a mythical island in the South Pacific, not be confused with Bali.
As an avid reader of Skin Diver Magazine, I became convinced that Palau was my own "Bali Hai". Photos of Palau's emerald green, gumdrop-shaped archipelago adrift in swirls of vivid shades of blue and turquoise, some ringed with white, sandy beaches set my heart aflutter with excitement. Its reputation of having perhaps the most biodiverse marinelife in the world compounded my fascination. The fact that it is halfway around the world in the middle of "nowhere", a vast ocean, only added to its appeal. I HAD to go there. NOTHING would stop me from going. Not the recession, not threats of terrorism, nothing!
So I started to make arrangements as early as 11 months in advance, because I was told that the flights to Micronesia, available only on Continental Airlines, were booked well advance. And it would be possible to easily change dates, or even get the tickets refunded (not an option I even contemplated, but it was nice to know just the same!)
Since it takes about 5.5 hours to get to Hawaii from Oakland, California, and then another 7 hours to get to Guam, the biggest island in Micronesia, and then an additional 2 hours to get to Palau, I decided to make it a three week trip. I also decided that it only made sense to include going to the amazing Micronesian island of Yap, only an hour away from Palau. Yap is famous for its Manta Rays and Stone Money. Yap is also known as one of the most traditional and un-touristy islands in the Pacific where many of the natives wear next to nothing and chew the betelnut, living much as they have for thousands of years.
On top of that I was more than happy at the prospect of staying at the legendary Sheraton Royal Hawaiian, otherwise known as "The Pink Palace", on Waikiki Beach with the dramatic Diamondhead peaking at the end of the hotel-and-palmtree-lined sandy beach buzzing with activities. Oahu has so much to offer-- all kinds of watersports, gorgeous beaches, world-class shopping, spectacular natural beauty everywhere, historical interests and enchanting, colorful cultural shows full of music, dance and songs of the Pacific islands.
On all of these islands, the people were very warm and welcoming. It seemed like every time I turned around, someone was putting a lei of incredibly beautiful and fragrant flowers on my head or around my neck. Sometimes I was laden with several leis! Not that I minded! Later I would decorate my hotel rooms with them.
Now more than ever is a great time to travel, since tourism has dropped off overall due to the recession and 9/11. The people on these islands are more than ever happy to welcome tourists with extra attention and generosity. Please, do yourself and everyone else a favor--- travel and have some fun! Explore the wonders of the world and make new friends from around the world!
Snapshots of Palau, famous for its Rock Islands…
Palau lived up to its reputed natural beauty. I got to see those gorgeous emerald, mushroom-shaped Rock Islands from up above in a toy-sized airplane (a 7-seater Piper) when I took the flight on Belau Air to the southern-most island in the Palau archipelago which is Angaur. It was a scant 20 minute flight each way, and cost $80 RT. I rented the only moped on the island, which had no street signs and only dirt roads. I saw cute little monkeys high up in the trees in the jungle, a 2 foot moniter lizard (locally known as an iguana) cross my path, a great blowhole on a rocky beach, beaches covered temptingly with gorgeous seashells (illegal to collect), encountered friendly natives walking around with machetes for cutting down bananas and coconuts, I imagine (good thing they were friendly!), courting tropicbirds flying under the canopy of trees near the shore, a Shinto shrine and various monuments to US soldiers who fought to free the natives in WWII.
Back on the Palau island of Arakabesan, I stayed at the luxurious Palau Pacific Resort, which really is THE place to stay in Palau, and many would agree. Even if you stay at another place in Palau, you will most likely end up at the Palau Pacific Resort anyway, for its excellent restaurants, nightly entertainment and wonderful beach. It happens to be the only beach on the island. The sandy beach is a great place to unwind, but when adventure calls, you can snorkel right there, not even going over your head, to see the fantastic Giant Clams, some as big as almost 5 feet! The smaller clams have brilliantly colored mantles (the fleshy lips), each one seeming to outdo the next in exquisite designs and colors. More fascinating than the gowns at the Academy Awards! There are the usual tropical fish encountered in many places, including the gorgeous parrotfishes, moorish idols, and triggerfish, as well as many kinds of corals, starfish and a cute little relative of the sea horse, the pipefish. The Giant Clams and much of the marinelife in Micronesia and the Indo-Pacific are found only there.
There are several diving/snorkelling/kayaking/canoeing activity operators on Palau, but I found the most accommodating one to be Fish 'n Fins. Some of the other ones need a minimum of people to do certain activities, but one way or another, Fish 'n Fins came through for me no matter what. They will also pick you up and drop you off at your hotel. On top of that, they have two of those adorable little monkeys from Angaur, named Christmas and New Year's. Watch out, these monkeys are expert pickpockets! With Fish 'n Fins, I accomplished many goals I had set for myself, such as seeing a Black-Tipped Reef Shark (5' and going the opposite direction fortunately!), snorkelling amongst stingless jellyfish in Jellyfish Lake, studying the fascinating Mandarinfish in Mandarin Lake as they swam around among the rock and corals, spying a huge Napoleon Fish at the Huge Drop Off, and canoeing in an outrigger in the Rock Islands, just me and Oliver, a most charming, accommodating and knowledgeable guide. He and I saw the beautiful tropic birds flying overhead, as well as some big fruitbats. We also explored a cave full of small bats, snorkelled, and had lunch up on a cliff with a rat and a crab looking on, but fortunately keeping their distance. By the way, on these snorkelling/scuba expeditions, as one of just a few Americans, I shared these wonderful experiences with people from Japan, Austria, Germany, Israel, China, Switzerland, Spain, all on the same boat. It is interesting to think how this would not have been possible 50 years ago. (It is a reminder that peace is possible and it is indeed to everyone's benefit. I certainly hope that we can all pull together to achieve a fair and lasting peace in the Middle East, because I would also like to feel safe exploring such fascinating places as Egypt, Jordan, Turkey, Israel, and hopefully soon Palestine.)
Every night, the hotel-sponsored bus made its rounds of several local restaurants in Koror, the capital of Palau. My favorite, other than the Coconut Terrace at the Palau Pacific Resort, is The Seahorse Restaurant that specializes in wonderful curry dishes, but also offers Chinese and American dishes. Try the Goa Seafood Curry dish. Delicious! The restaurant is on the deck on the second floor overlooking the water. Try the local beer, one of the Red Rooster drafts, made by the Palau Brewing Company. I had the Mango Wheat and it was excellent! Kramer's Restaurant at the Etpison Museum also is a very good choice. I had the fish wrapped in banana leaf with a tasty ginger-soy-honey condiment (I tried this combo at home in my little processor and also threw in some coconut meat and it was delicious!). The Museum itself is quite interesting and there is also an excellent giftshop as well. I bought one of the Palauan "money" necklaces there, made of a red coral, that I wore almost everyday thereafter. The Palau Pacific Resort has two great restaurants, one more expensive and intimate, and the other, The Coconut Terrace, more affordable and more open, spilling out onto the terrace, and both with a gorgeous view of the ocean with the Rock Islands in the distance. My favorite dish there was the Taro Leaf Soup, a green puree of taro leaf, coconut milk and bits of sweet crabmeat. Yum! (I bet the Bongo Bongo soup at Trader Vic's was inspired by this soup.) The buffets both in the morning and evenings were excellent!
I regretted having to leave the idyllic Palau, yet I was excited to head on to Yap, only an hour away.
Getting There: Aloha (now Hawaiian) Airlines to Hawaii; Continental Airlines, 1-800-231-0856, www.continental.com, to Micronesia.
Best Place to Stay: The Palau Pacific Resort (see photo above), 011-680-488-2600, or toll-free: 800-327-8585; e-mail: ppr@palaunet.com
Best Watersports Operator: Fish 'n Fins, 011-680-488-2637, www.fishnfins.com, and there are several others too!
Best Restaurants: The Coconut Terrace at the Palau Pacific Resort for excellent, lavish buffets, The Sea Horse (at the West Plaza Hotel) for excellent curries; Kramer's Restaurant at The Etpison Museum, for some local style cooking; Fuji Restaurant, for its famous sushi and other Japanese seafood specialties. A neat place to see what the locals eat is Yano's. You'll see all kinds of foodstuffs that require explanations. You might want to try some of it yourself!
HINT: You may want to inquire as to exactly what is the so-called "Reef Fish" featured on the menu at the Palau Pacific Resort. I ordered it thinking it would be a kind of snapper or flounder of some sort, only to be horrified to see a beautiful parrotfish complete with head and tail lying on my plate under a sesame-soy sauce scattered with lemongrass! Needless to say, I lost my appetite, although I did attempt to eat some of it. I did express my dismay in a good-natured way to the waitperson, who listened kindly and indulgently.
What / Where to Buy: Storyboards are one of the most popular souvenirs you can buy in Palau. These are skillfully carved boards that feature scenes from ancient Palauan legends and/or scenes from traditional Palauan life. Many are made in a prison, where you can buy them directly. They vary in size, and type of wood. Apparently the local mahaogany will withstand temperature changes, but other woods may crack in transport. Other souvenirs are the Palau "money" necklaces. These are usually made of coral, but the real Palauan money necklaces are made from an ancient imported glass paste from China or Indonesia, and are prized heirlooms handed down from generation to generation and cannot be bought. Stars made of seagrass, seashells and coconut shell make wonderful souvenirs. These are sold throughout the islands, but the best prices by far for these are in Guam (see below). Please refrain from buying anything made from turtle shell. It's illegal and certainly environmentally incorrect, as you probably know anyway. At any rate, I recommend wandering around and exploring to find interesting items, but if you have limited time, you can go directly to the Etpison Museum giftstore, and there are several excellent local shops such as Islander Arts and Crafts right on the main street in downtown Koror. I bought a great small storyboard there for only $35, which I think is a real bargain.
Best Activities: Lying on a lounge on the beach under an umbrella, snorkelling, diving, canoeing and/or kayaking, hiking, shopping, fly to outer islands on Belau Air, take a tour of the big island in a 4-wheel drive, explore museums, backroads, neighborhoods, and local stores.
MUST-DOs in Palau: Snorkel in Jellyfish Lake; snorkel or scuba at Mandarin Lake at dusk to see the incredibly pretty little Mandarinfish as they only come out at dusk; Soft Coral Arch; also snorkel/scuba at Turtle Cove, The Big Drop Off, Blue Corner, Ulong Channel; Ngemelis Wall; canoe in an outrigger around the Rock Islands.
Resources: www.visit-palau.com; "Micronesia Handbook" by Moon Travel Handbooks, www.moon.com.
Money: US dollars
Snapshots of Yap, famous for its manta rays and stone money…
Only an hour away from Palau, it seems centuries away from the rest of the world, and that is an enormous part of its appeal. Life for the natives of Yap has remained basically unchanged for centuries.
It's fascinating to be somewhere where people walk around in next to nothing for one thing. They are so open and easy-going for the most part. The men in loinclothes, called "thus", in colors that designate which island they are from. The women wear "lava lavas" in their own unique family design, basically a sarong woven from palm fiber or cotton threads from their waists down past their knees, whereas they wear may only a flower lei hanging from their necks, and nothing else above their waists. In fact, it is considered offensive for a woman to show her knees, so if you are a woman, by all means make sure your knees are covered when on Yap, except right in the little downtown area, at your hotel, and of course, on the dive boats.
Another thing that all natives carry around is a shoulder bag made of woven palm leaves which holds betelnuts and its accompanying condiments: lime (a white powder made of burnt ground coral), and pepper leaves. Virtually everyone, except for small children, chew the betelnut everywhere no matter what they are doing, working or not. Betelnuts contain a mild stimulant, similar to tobacco or caffeine, when chewed and kept on the side of the mouth. It is illegal in the United States. I tried it, and it was "interesting", but trying it once was enough. First of all, it turns your mouth bright red-orange, and eventually, it will turn your teeth black after prolonged use, which is considered attractive in Yap. It's amazing how it’s so true, how beauty is in the eye of the beholder! It also left an irritated spot on my gum for a couple days. If you are curious to try it, just mention it to someone, and presto, someone will offer you some! I mentioned it at O'Keefes Kanteen while having a beer with a new-found friend from Oregon, and a Puck-like Yapese young man with a flower crown on his head and wearing nothing but a thu, appeared like magic and offered me some! It's free as it grows wild right there on the betelnut palms, just like bananas, mangos, papayas and citrus fruits are growing wild everywhere on Yap, as in the garden of Eden. Of course, all the trees of Yap belong to local families, so it may not be a good idea to help yourself.
Yap is famous for its fascinating stone money, that now they only used for ceremonial purposes, and are passed on from generation to generation. It was originally quarried in Palau centuries ago and derived its value from the long and dangerous journey to Yap via outrigger canoes. In the late 1800's, an American-Irishman by the name of O'Keefe was shipwrecked in Yap, nursed back to health by the Yapese, then he left for Hong Kong, then came back to Yap and with his new ship brought the stone money from Palau to Yap, which made him wealthy, but eventually devalued the stone money. He was popular, but mysteriously disappeared. A movie, "His Majesty O'Keefe" was made about him starring Burt Lancaster and there is also a book about him too. You will find the stone money here and there in front of homes or public buildings, also lining the stone walkways near the thatched men's meeting houses and lining stone platforms. They range in size from 2 feet up to larger than 8 feet in diameter. Often a large conch shell is found placed in the center hole.
Walking along the ancient stone pathways lined with majestic palms and exotic flowers through the lush forest of Yap is an unforgettable experience, especially when you come across some of the natives. It feels a little mystical, like being at Stonehenge must feel like. I rode a bicycle down dirt roads, all which are nameless, and then walked the bike along the gorgeous stone pathways, and came across two native women and their babies, just sitting there cutting up coconuts. What a life! Later, I came across the men's meeting house in Kenday, where there were a few men in decked in the crown of flowers, and thus, and sporting bright red smiles just hanging out.
The manta rays are the main reason for many choosing to visit Yap. Since I am a snorkeller, I could only get glimpses of them deep beneath me, as they went through their cleaning station ritual approximately 70 feet down. When I later saw the videotape of the footage of what the divers from my boat had experienced as they witnessed the mantas close up at the cleaning station, I actually cried! Like a baby! I have had close contact with mantas before in the Sea of Cortez (even touched a 16 footer!), but the spectacle of seeing a parade of mantas right above me would have been so fantastic! It's almost enough to get me to brave taking scuba lessons! Funny thing is that I actually made it into the video-- a little figure on the surface along with the boat driver!
Other marinelife I encountered at Yap were the totally enchanting mandarin fish at Mandarin Reef along with their buddies, the pajama cardinals, another very unusual fish which I had never seen before. There were plenty of colorful soft and hard corals, a big moray eel, bumphead parrotfish, and many pretty tropical fish such as butterfly fish, moorish idols, pipefish, etc. Others saw sharks and turtles.
In a word, Yap is simply UNFORGETTABLE!
Best Watersports Operator: Yap Divers (Tel: 011-691-350-2300, e-mail: yapdivers@mantaray.com) and there are others too, but Yap Divers, the first and largest diving operation on Yap, is also great for socializing, with it's romantic ship for happy hours, soon to also house the restaurant. Must do's: Manta Ridge, Valley of the Rays and Mandarin Reef at dusk for the Mandarinfish!
Best Restaurants: "The Conservatory", with a 20's safari-like atmosphere at Trader's Ridge, and the restaurant at Manta Ray Bay Hotel.
Best Bars: O'Keefe's Kanteen, also owned by Trader's Ridge Resort, and it's just across the street and down the steps.
Best Place to Buy Souvenirs:
Activities: Scuba and snorkelling, biking, hiking, exploring, attending a traditional dance performance, kayaking.
Videotape of Yap Mantas: e-mail to yapman65@hotmail.com for excellent footage of life in Yap above and below the water.
Money: US dollars
When you go to Micronesia, you must touch down in Guam before heading out to your final destination. Many people don't realize that Guam truly is worthy of more than just an overnite layover. It's got beautiful beaches, jungles with waterfalls, and coral reefs.
I had a personal reason for wanting to explore Guam, and that is because I lived there for two years when I was an Air Force brat of three and four years of age. One of my younger sisters was born there too. I have vague memories of playing in the water at the beach with my parents and sister, and of riding a water buffalo, which I thought was a horse at the time. There are still water buffalos in Guam, I hear, but I didn't see one on my trip unfortunately, although I tried to find one during my short stay.
A dramatic spot to visit is Two Lovers Point, which offers a spectacular view of the ocean below and Tumon Bay. Legend has it that many years ago, two young lovers, a young daughter of a high-ranking Spaniard and the young son of a poor local Chamorro family, were hounded by their disapproving families until they jumped off the high cliff after tying their hair together and drowned. Sort of a Guamanian version of Romeo and Juliet.
A beautiful beach near Two Lover's Point is Gun Beach. It can be reached by a taking a bumpy dirt road down the hill behind the Nikko Hotel. Unless you have a four-wheel drive, it would be wise to park in the Nikko Hotel, and just check with them to see if that's OK. It was the day I was there.
I stayed at the Hilton Guam Resort & Spa, which was fabulous. It is ideally located on the left side of Tumon Bay affording fantastic views of the bay and ocean. The beach in front of the hotel stretches around the bay and has some coral reefs. I met the cutest little Picasso Triggerfish right in front of the hotel that was very amusing, as it kept coming right up to my mask and then darting away. I think it was the same fish that someone else had been telling me he had encountered the day before. There are all kinds of swimming pools at the Hilton, including an "infinity pool", a large meandering pool with waterfalls, lap pools, and a jacuzzi. There are also an assortment of excellent restaurants to choose from, including the ritzy Roy's featuring continental and fusion cuisine, and Genji's, featuring excellent first class Japanese cuisine. The hospitality at the Hilton is unmatched. Everyone there is very gracious and welcoming. With Manfred Peiper, the General Manager, who was voted Executive of the Year 2001, at the helm of the Hilton, it is easy to see why. With his sincere concern and interest in the welfare and comfort of his hotel's guests, he sets the tone and leads by example! The hotel also boasts an excellent art collection by very talented local artists.
Best Place to Stay: Hilton Guam Resort & Spa, Tel: 1-671-646-1835, www.hilton.com, e-mail: gumhiltn@ite.net
Best Restaurants: Roys' Restaurant & Lounge, exceptional Euro-Asian cuisine and Genji, traditional Japanese, both at the Hilton.
Best Shop to Buy Excellent Souvenirs: Marianas Handicrafts (great prices! better than on Palau and Yap) Pacific Plaza Bldg., Upper Tumon (across from St. John's School)
Best Activities: Snorkelling, Diving, Swimming, Hiking, Lying on the beach under a coconut tree.
Money: US dollars
Snapshots of Oahu, Hawaii, the legendary land of Aloha…
It's almost a cliché, but you just can't beat Oahu in many ways. It's breathtakingly beautiful, conveniently close, affordable, totally fun-oriented, and offers everything from watersports, to culture, to history, to nature, to shopping. What's not to like? Some people say it's overly commercial, but if people do want to find some quiet unspoiled nature, it's easy to get to once you jump into your rental car and head up to the north or the west shores.
I just love Waikiki Beach. I love the classic icon of Diamondhead looming at the end of the crescent of the beach. I love all the activities happening right in front of your eyes, like you are stepping into a classic movie. There are a herd of surfers, hypnotically riding the easy, rolling waves. If you want to try it yourself, there are several surfing schools right on the beach. There are huge catamarans taking people out for cruises of the bay. There are huge outriggers to ride the surf in. There are even places to snorkel, on the side closer to Diamondhead. And of course one can swim, or just stroll along the shoreline or lie on the beach and soak up the rays (but don't forget to put on your suntan lotion! I saw one woman who was as red as a boiled lobster!)
I stayed at the legendary Sheraton Royal Hawaiian, "The Pink Palace", where I have always wanted to visit, so it was a dream come true. I love the feeling of Old Hawaii there, the nostalgic feeling of the genteel days of the 30's and 40's. It was built starting in 1925 on land formerly used by Hawaiian royalty in the Spanish-Moorish style that was the rage of its day. Today it remains as an oasis of tropical elegance on a private cul-de-sac, surrounded by graceful palm trees and opens right onto Waikiki Beach. The Sheraton also owns the other very classic Old Hawaii hotel, the Moana Surfrider, also located just a short walk down Waikiki Beach, and features the famous, humongous Moana Banyan tree, under which you can enjoy a splendid English-style high tea if you like.
The first thing I did after I got settled into my room, was go downstairs to the Mai Tai Bar, and order a Mai Tai, and a decadent cheeseburger laden with bacon, cheese, and avocado with a side of perfect french fries, accompanied by a miniature bottle of ketchup. I was in heaven ("Cheeseburger in Paradise" comes to mind), as I indulged in this feast as my eyes took in the spectacle of Waikiki Beach and Diamondhead.
I rented a car and drove over to hike up Diamondhead State Monument. It was an interestingly strenuous hike, including steep switchbacks, long blackened tunnels (no lights!), stairs, and at the top, you are rewarded with a spectacular view of Waikiki Beach and Honolulu. It's about 45 minutes up and a half-hour down.
Back on the road, I passed up the chance to snorkel at Hanauma Bay, since the parking lot was full and there was lots else to see and do. I headed up to Sunset Beach on the North Shore, which is famous for its world-class big wave surfing action. I saw some surfers out in the distance braving the waves. There were other surfer-watchers too, but the beach was uncrowded. By the way, the drive all along the coast is just beautiful. Those lucky Hawaiians have such a beautiful commute, yet billboards do admonish people to "drive with Aloha". "Aloha" has many uses and meanings, but mostly it means simply "Love". Another Hawaiian word you'll hear alot is "Mahalo", which means "Thank you", which is always a good word to use!
After Sunset Beach, I went to Waimea Falls Park. Once there, you can either walk, or get on a guide-led trolley, which will take you on a tour of the beautiful lush valley which has exotic birds, like peacocks strolling under the many variety of trees and flowers. It truly is a paradise. Little mongooses, which at first I mistook for river otters, can be seen near the river darting here and there. The main attraction of the park is a good-sized waterfall, and the two buff young men who perform various dives from the top of the falls for your entertainment. You are also treated to live music and dance, and of course, before you know it, you are invited to learn the dance, which is often the case at many of the performances I attended. It's a good thing I took a class on hula before I left, just for fun!
Finally, I went to the Polynesian Cultural Center, which is a massive theme park featuring the cultures of about seven island groups in Polynesia. The highlight here is the extravaganza dance show in the evening, featuring the dances and costumes from all the island groups and it should not be missed. It is a beautiful, moving, colorful spectacle! Before that, there is a great guided boatride you can take, where you are paddled to different parts of the park representing the different islands. There are plenty of places to shop for island-inspired products and two restaurants-- one is buffet-style and the other more formal.
My cousin Phillip Gottling III, is a bassoonist in the Honolulu Orchestra, and he invited me to be his guest at the Honolulu Opera Theatre's production of "Salome", in which he was performing. It really was a fantastic show, with incredibly colorful, imaginative and outrageous costumes and stageset. It's always great to know a native of where you are visiting because they know the "in" hidden places to go, and my cousin took me to a really amazing place called Hale Noa. It doesn't look very exceptional from the outside, but once inside the intimate, dimly lit room, I sensed I was someplace special. It is a kava bar. Kava is a mild stimulant / intoxicant that the ancient Hawaiians drank at ceremonies and social gatherings, long before Europeans brought alcohol to their shores. (Lately there have been reports of severe liver damage with excessive consumption.) Everyone was smiling, laughing and talking quietly in the softly lit room. Behind the bar, there where large wooden bowls of muddy-looking kava, being stirred with wooden ladles by the bartender as she served up little bowls of it. Phillip and I took a seat at a table close to a little platform. As we supped our kava, the native Hawaiians at the table next to us started singing softly as a woman strummed her ukelele. They sounded great. Quietly a young man with a stand-up bass and another young man with a guitar got on the little platform and joined in the music-making without any announcements or fuss. When they started playing, a woman stood up facing the players on the platform and sang back at them, it was pure magic! The love, the spirit of Aloha, that was filling the room was heady and intoxicating (it wasn't just the kava!). Then a woman started dancing some of the traditional Hawaiian dances, and everyone was completely mesmerized. My cousin and I acknowledged that we were blessed to have experienced such a spiritual gift as those natural, spontaneous moments of enchantment. We felt like we were at a private party and welcomed as family with the Hawaiians. Later I asked them if they had a CD, but unfortunately they did not, but they recommended getting a tape by The Kahauanu Lake Trio. So I do have a tape by them now (thanks to my cousin!). I also bought a CD by another Hawaiian named Israel Kamakawiwo'ole, whose last CD "IZ" has been a best seller on Billboard charts for ages, and I have been listening to it every single day since the day I bought it in Hawaii. It will melt your heart. I am totally a fan of Hawaiian music now. It is SO soothing, loving and spiritual.
After a trip like I had, I do feel changed for the better. A kinder, gentler me… usually. I hope it lasts. IZ will help!
Best Place to Stay: The Royal Hawaiian, aka "The Pink Palace". Telephone: 808-922-4422; www.sheraton-hawaii.com, www.luxurycollectionhawaii.com
Best Restaurant: The Surf Room at the Royal Hawaiian
Best Hotspots at Night: Duke's Restaurant & Barefoot Bar at the Outrigger Hotel next to the Royal Hawaiian, The Diamondhead Grille at the W Hotel
Best Shops: All over the place On the North Shore on Kam Highway near Sunset Beach, the Hauula Gift Shop as a wide choice of Hawaiian souvenirs. Say "Hi" to the friendly owner Fawwaz for me when you're there!
Best Native Hawaiian Kava Bar: Hale Noa at 766 Kapahula Ave., Phone: 735-4-awa Note: There has been some recent reports of liver damage due to excessive consumption of kava kava..
Activities: Polynesian Cultural Center www.polynesia.com, 293-3333 or see your concierge for reservations for the great dance show!
Music: Anything by The Kahuanu Lake Trio and Singers, and by IZ, especially his CD "Alone in IZ World".
I booked my trip through Air France Holidays (1-800-237-2623) because I wanted: a non-stop flight, rental cars included both in Paris and on the Riviera, and a choice of many hotels to choose from, one airline for all connecting flights and I wanted a one-stop place to arrange all this quickly. They will send you a brochure of all their package trips if you request it. By the way, since September is a popular time to go to France, it is advisable to make your travel arrangements in advance, as early as April, or even March. I waited until early May and all the flights were booked for the first week of September! So, plan early if you can. If you want to just go to Paris, the best bargains are to take New Frontiers/ Corsair out of the Oakland Airport. Incredibly great deals to be had-- like $428 roundtrip air or $719 air & hotel (summer 2000)! Call 1-800-677-0720 or go to www.newfrontiers.com for more information.
From San Francisco Airport, it was about a twelve hour trip, going up and over the North Pole, down over England til we landed at the Charles De Gaulle Airport. Surprisingly, the flight really didn't seem that long. It helped being seated to a very nice couple.
I hopped right back on another Air France plane down to Nice, where I picked up my rental car no problem. I had worried that there might be problems because that was around the height of the gasoline shortages and strikes, which had affected the Nice Airport according to the newspapers just a few days before I arrived.
It was a total thrill to drive along the French Riviera past such landmarks as the famed Negresco Hotel in Nice and the famous beaches of the French Riviera. My hotel in Nice was very nice, but not thrilling. It was the Mercure Notre Dame, which has the distinction of a rooftop pool, which I never got around to using.
The beach at Nice is beautiful, however, it is made up of smooth, angled dark gray pebbles that make getting into the water and out of it back to your towel an exercise in humility, as they literally force you onto your hands and knees at times if you have sensitive feet. So much for trying to appear coolly seductive!
What a treat, indulging in a gelato after coming out of the salt water and taking in the views!
Entering Old Nice is like stepping back into time, with it's very old stucco buildings awash in warm, earthy colors of mustard, terracotta, pinks and rust. There are charming fountains, cafes and shops at almost every turn, with the ancient cathedral towering over them. The quaint marina at Nice is jam-packed with high-tech, glossy yachts from all over the world, with many from the Cayman Islands. There are many art museums in Nice and nearby, including the Matisse, Chagall and Naïve Art Museums to name just a few.
With Nice as my base, I explored the French Riviera in my rented blue Volkswagen Lupo. Every day I was up early to begin a new adventure-- so much to see and do. No time to sleep late. I explored the beautiful hilltop town of Eze and drank in the magnificent views of the Mediterranean below, with Cap Ferat, Villefranche, and other towns far below. Another day was devoted to the delightful old hilltop towns of Vence, St. Paul de Vence with the nearby Maeght Foundation Museum, and Haut de Cagnes, with a stop at the Renoir Museum on the way.
I treated myself to an expensive breakfast at one of the most beautiful hotels in the world, the Eden Roc Hotel in Cap d'Antibes. It was so worth it ( gasp! $38!) because it was just such a serenely gorgeous place, with an elegant Old World waiter, like right out of a Noel Coward play, dressed in white, who was very friendly and told me about how he vacations in Miami in the winter. I was seated out on the terrace with a view of the sweeping green palm-studded grounds leading down to the sea. I felt as if I were in an old classic movie, like Hitchcock's "To Catch a Thief" with Cary Grant and Grace Kelly. Actually that movie featured a lot of the locales around the French Riviera that can still be recognized today. A nice American couple from Colorado in the jewelry business sat at the table next to me. They were headed to the same place I was…St. Tropez, but they were going by boat. By the way, incredibly, the Eden Roc Hotel does not accept credit cards! Not even for their pricey hotel rooms! Strictly cash! I imagine you'd need a separate suitcase just for the cash!
The ride to St. Tropez from Cap d'Antibes was long -- almost three hours. However the views made up for it. It was surprising to see the dramatic red rock bluffs of L' Esterel. It reminded me of the landscape around Big Bend National Park in Texas, and even a bit of Utah, but next to the sea.
Finally, rolling into the harbor area of St. Tropez was really like stepping into a movie set. It is just so perfectly quaint and picturesque. There were fishermen's boats, yachts and sailboats huddled next to each other against the backdrop of the pastel-colored old town and its church steeple, while artists were selling their paintings along the dock, as tourists milled about and people looked on from their umbrella-shaded tables at the cafes lining the harbor. There's a fine art museum there as well -- Musee de l'Annonciade. By the way, most of the museums seem to be closed at noon til two for lunch, but what I'd like to know is why don't they stagger their lunches? O well. It seems as if food and tradition take precedence over commerce and tourists' preferences. Incomprehensible to us Americans!
The beaches on the other side of St. Tropez were so beautiful… nice, white sand…no limping to the water's edge here! There are many private beach clubs along the long stretch of beach to choose from-- some more wild than others, some more family-oriented, some purely nudist, and so on. I ended up at Club 55, which seemed to be one of the family-oriented ones. As it was late in the day, no one chased me down for money as I made my way over to a lounge. There were a few topless women, as is rumored, however, more women than not kept their bikini tops on. Must have been Americans, some have asserted upon hearing this. Note: I kept mine on. Maybe not next time! The downtown square of St. Tropez has a large dirt square lined with old trees, where the townspeople, mostly men, play the game of "boules" , a sort of game with a ball that is kicked around, like bowling, but only the feet are used. The atmosphere seemed timeless, as these games have been played here for centuries. There were also some very chic, and sophisticated shops nearby. So, St. Tropez is a pleasant blend of the traditional and the trendy; rural, yet sophisticated.
Finally, I found my way back to civilization, and went back to my hotel.
The next day I drove to the splendid municipality of Monaco. Ooo la la. I had really treated myself by booking a room at possibly the most glamorous hotel in the world, the Hotel de Paris (Tel: 377 92 16 30 00; www.montecarloresort.com ) , right next to the Monte Carlo Casino. I truly believe that you need to indulge yourself once in a while and live out your fantasies and this was one of mine. When I had made the reservation in May, it was going to be $503 for one night, but because the dollar was so strong by the time I arrived, it came down to $425. I would say that was a bargain for the experience I had. First, the valet takes care of the car ($24 for overnite parking) and the porter takes your bags straight up to your room. You are shown to your lovely, huge room with the fantastic view of the harbor filled with luxury yachts and the royal palace on the opposite bluff. A dozen long-stemmed roses, ivory, with pink-edged petals, were sent up to my room moments after my arrival. Sigh… Now I know what it feels like to be a princess, I think. The bathroom was humongous, with two sinks, a huge bathtub, a huge separate shower, terrycloth robes, complimentary terrycloth slippers to keep, Hermes toiletries, etc. etc. etc. Passes to the private gaming room in the Monte Carlo Casino, to the health spa and to the beach club were all included. I checked them all out too. Wow, is all I have to say. Double-wow.
I had dinner and breakfast at the Café de Paris, which were both reasonably priced. I passed on trying to have dinner at the famed chef Alain Ducasse's Le Louis XV in the Hotel de Paris. Trop, trop cher! (Waayyy too expensive!)
It was amazing to walk into all the shops of all the famous designers one reads about. The sales clerks were all so surprisingly nice, especially in the Yves St. Laurent boutique. As a matter of fact, the "Attitude" that the French seem to have a reputation for seems to be more of a rumor than fact, these days anyway.
The Musee Oceanographique, perched high on a bluff, is housed in a beautiful Belle Epoque building, with extensive collections of coral, shells, and marine-related artifacts as well as some impressive aquariums with sharks, moray eels, sea turtles and colorful fish.
Surprise! There's a McDonald's in Monaco. It wasn't too hard to resist going in.
Finally, another fun treat was at Cannes. I was a guest at the Les Beach Boys Club at the Carleton Hotel, where I rented a lounge under an umbrella on their beach (normally $20 but since it was late in the day, I got it for half-price) and ordered a tuna sandwich and a bottle of San Pellegrino ($24). Included was use of the showers and towels. Frolicking in the sizable warm waves there was definitely a high point. Nice sand there too.
Resources and Notes for the French Riviera:
I highly recommend getting lots of books and maps and researching on the internet before going on any trip. For this trip I got:
Book: Provence & the Cote d'Azur, Eyewitness Travel Guides Full of great information, including maps and lots of photos. Highly recommended.
Maps: Streetwise Cote d'Azur Excellent, easy to read and use street maps, with overviews on the other side. Also, Michelin's Provence / Cote d'Azur, for a big, overall map.
Driving: Use a credit card such as American Express for renting a car, because collision insurance is covered, and they do pay. Theft is not included however, nor is liability. I bought the theft insurance. Hint: Don't attempt to drive thru the narrow streets of the Old Towns. I scraped the side of my car, unfortunately, on a corner of a building trying to get around it. Oops. American Express did pay for the damage, but the French Hertz is still trying to collect loss of use and administrative fees from them. By the way, they drive on the right side of the road like we do in America. Only in the UK and some of their past or present territories do they drive on the left side.
Bank Cards: If you want to use your bank card in Europe's Versatellers, you need to have a four digit PIN code, so change yours here in the US if it's not four digits before going. Note: As far as traveller's checks are concerned, bank cards render them obsolete, and it can be a hassle trying to cash them. Do, however, bring some francs with you to cover things like small cafes, tips, ice cream cones, little purchases and places that don't accept credit cards, which are few. In general, you can use your credit cards for most things, and you may even get a better exchange rate.
Hotels: www.nice-coteazur.org
Well, it was a bit confusing at first driving around Paris, but in general it was really fun-- Eh, regardez moi! I quickly learned about the Peripherique, the mostly underground highway circling Paris. It provides one the means to circumvent all the traffic and traffic lights above. OK, driving around the Place Charles de Gaulle Etoile around the Arc de Triomphe was a little hairy, but the trick is to try to keep on the outer edge of the traffic as much as possible and also to make sure through eye contact and body language that the other driver has given you the right of way. Piece of gateau! As far as parking goes, it is much cheaper than here in San Francisco, in general. Or at least it is on par with the Sutter Stockton Garage. A whole afternoon parked right in the middle of the fashionable St. Germain des Pres where all the most famous cafes and many chic boutiques are set me back only $8. Sometimes I would just park the car and buy a ticket for one of the big boat-busses, known as le Bateau-Bus, which was a great bargain. These water-busses ply the waters of the Siene, dreamily gliding by magnificent buildings such as the Louvre, Notre Dame, the Orsay and others, and under the many beautiful bridges, including my favorite, the ornate Alexander III. They make the rounds from around 10 am til about 9 pm with stops at the Eiffel Tower, the Orsay, the Louvre, Notre-Dame, Hotel de Ville (the Marais ), and Germain de Pres, with single trips (about $3), one day pass ($10), and two day pass ($15).
One of the reasons I wanted the car was because I wanted to drive out to Mont Saint Michel to spend one day and night. Mont Saint Michel is a magnificent, ancient cathedral built on a "mount" that is surrounded by water during high tide, although the causeway rarely is swamped by water these days except around the equinox. So the next day after arriving in Paris, I headed out for Mont Saint Michel, because I wanted to make the most of my five-day museum pass once back in Paris. (The pass, an excellent bargain, must be used in consecutive days.) It was a long drive, about at least 4 hours, going by way of Orleans, and coming back about 3 hours, going by way of Rouen. However, it was a lovely drive, and it was nice to see that there were a lot of open air and forests not far from Paris, as well as many old towns in the distance each with its own massive cathedral with huge spires and towers. I stayed at the quaint Auberge St. Pierre (phone: 02.33.60.14.03, fax: 02.33.48.52.89) on Mont St. Michel, and would highly recommend it. Mont St. Michel was as mystical and amazing as I had hoped it would be. It is recognized as one of the great wonders of the world, and has long been considered a sacred place, even before the cathedral was built on the mount around the year 800 AD. It has attracted hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and tourists throughout the centuries. After exploring the cathedral, and dining at the excellent restaurant at the Auberge St. Pierre, shopping was fun. There were many beautiful tapestries, and I found one I couldn't resist. There were also many tempting crockery and dishware items, which in the end I did resist-- too heavy for one thing!
Back in Paris, I went to all the typical, must-not-miss tourist attractions, many of which were covered by the afore-mentioned museum pass, which I ordered through my Air France Holidays package deal, but can be picked up at any of the participating museums. Not only do you save a lot of money, but you also feel a bit like a VIP as you flash your pass to skip all the long lines, saving a lot of time. So, just for fun (hope you're enjoying this as much as me) I'll list the places I went to with a little descriptive prose:
Sainte-Chapelle- Within easy walking distance to Notre Dame, this gothic cathedral was built in1248. Although the exterior is not that amazing, inside is exquisite, with jewel-like walls of stained glass windows and chandeliers. (Covered by Museum Pass)
Arc de Triomphe- I didn't climb up it, but rather walked and drove around it. It is truly massively impressive. (Covered by Museum Pass).
Eiffel Tower- Magnifique! Not covered by the Museum Pass, however, if you book a lunch reservation at the famous Jules Verne Restaurant at least 4 months in advance like I did, you can walk right by the mile-long lines of tourists, and take the restaurant's private elevator up to the second level high up in the Eiffel Tower for a wonderful dining experience. Afterwards, you can go out through their private door onto the observation deck to take in the views, and then come back into the hotel to go back down on their private elevator. A wonderful lunch consisting of complimentary appetizers, roast duck and a glass of wine came to $55. Well worth it, I'd say, considering the whole experience.
Orsay Museum- THE museum to go to see the French Impressionists and more. Huge. I skipped the Louvre since I had been there briefly, and it has mostly pre-Impressionist art, mostly antiquities. I had a delicious, artfully prepared lunch in their magnificent Belle Epoque dining room on the second floor. My entrée was a woven square of light and dark broiled fish. Delicious. I can't remember what it cost, but it really wasn't bad. (Covered by Museum Pass)
Picasso Museum- In the beautiful, old Marais district. Take a walk in the nearby Place des Vosges, where many a period film has been made. (Covered by Museum Pass)
Carnavalet Museum- An excellent trip through French history, especially the time just before, during and after the revolution. Many exquisite paintings, portraits and artifacts. Whole rooms done up in that period's style. Near the Picasso Museum. (Covered by Museum Pass)
Rodin Museum- This museum is especially beautiful, with its formal gardens and a magnificent mansion. The famous "Thinker" is in the garden, and inside, are the breathtaking "Lovers" and "Hands" carved delicately out of pure white marble. (Covered by Museum Pass)
Cluny Museum- In the Germain de Pres area, this medieval museum houses the famous "unicorn tapestries" which are truly exquisite, and full of mysterious symbols. Also fascinating here, are the collections of armor, religious relics, and artifacts from medieval times. Well worth a visit. (Covered by Museum Pass)
Café de Flore and Café Les Deux Magots, are both living museums, in the St. Germain-des-Pres area. These cafes have seen all kinds of action throughout the years, most notably in the 30's and 40's when Hemingway, Stein, Picasso, and many other luminaries spent many an afternoon sipping coffee and whatnot as they debated and chatted and watched the world go by. It's a delightful way to spend an hour or so. No wonder the tradition lives on. And the shopping is terrific around this area! One of the best stores I discovered just down the street a bit is Alain Manoukian ( www.alain-manoukian.fr) , a boutique that offers tres chic shoes, sweaters, skirts, etc., at very reasonable prices, especially compared to some of the other stores. So I bought a pair of shoes and two sweatersl This area is a shoe-fanatics's heaven, as there seems to be a shoe shop on every corner!
Versailles- Not far outside of the Paris, is the awesome Versailles. It was built to impress, and impress it does. It was not really built to live in, so King Louis the XIV also built a couple of smaller mansions on the grounds. There is a whimsical hamlet of several charming farmhouses, as well, built for Marie Antoinette to play at being a milk maid, as she retreated from the oppressive formality of the palace and life there. Today, it is still a working farm, with horses, pigs and sheep, and robust gardens. Versailles was built after King Louis XIV saw the Vaux- le- Comte, reputably even more beautiful than Versailles due to the fact that it is built on a more human scale. The Vaux de Comte was built by Nicholas Fouquet, King Louis' chief financier. According to historical gossip, when King Louis first saw the mansion at Fouquet's extremely lavish housewarming party, the monarch was seized with intense "palace envy". Three weeks later, he had Fouquet put in prison for the remainder of his days on the grounds of alleged embezzling of royal funds without giving Fouquet a proper trial. King Louis then hired all of the artisans that Fouquet had cultivated and patronized and put them to work on creating Versailles. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to make the trip to Vaux-le-Comte on my trip, but I will most definitely make it a point to visit there on my next trip. (Versailles is covered by Museum Pass. Vaux-le-Comte is not. You need a car to go to Vaux de Comte.) By the way, the movie "The Man in the Iron Mask" with Leonardo di Caprio, Jeremy Irons, John Malkevich, and Gerard Depardieu was filmed at Vaux-le-Comte.
Sacre-Coeur and Montmartre- Up on a hill in north Paris looms the gleaming white dome of Sacre-Coeur church looking like a vision of the Taj Mahal. It's a beautiful church, inside and out. Around the corner is the lively, picturesque Place du Tertre, a square lined with quaint cafes overlooking the plethora of artists painting and selling their works to the tourists and passersby. Nearby is the Dali Museum, which displays a wide variety of Salvador Dali's works - paintings, sculptures, furniture, and prints. (Not covered by Museum Pass)
Rue Cler- This little road, closed to cars, is a wonderful place to experience French food specialty stores--the boulangeries, patisseries, frommageries, etc. I bought about $40 worth of different cheeses here to bring back to the States for a Big Cheese Party. They will vacuum-pack them for you for only $1 for the whole lot.
Ile St. Louis- This is an island in the middle of Paris, and is the oldest part of Paris, and next to the other island where Notre-Dame is. Ile St. Louis retains an ancient, timeless quality and feels like a medieval town. There are many specialty food stores, each specializing in one kind of item, like cheese or mustards or sausages, etc., and there are some little chic boutiques to explore. The original Berthillon ice cream shop here makes the best Parisian ice cream and supplies the rest of Paris as well. La Tavern du Sargeant Recruiter is a very fun restaurant in an ancient building, and features all-you-can-eat menus of hearty food for only about $30 or so.
The Latin Quarter- I just got a chance to walk through this area, and all I can say is I noticed lots of restaurants, especially Greek restaurants, that seemed reasonably priced, and there were lots of people milling about. A very lively place.
It was time to go, unfortunately, so I didn't get to explore everything I wanted to, however, I think I covered a lot of ground. Now I have an excuse to go back, hopefully a few more times. France has so much to explore-- the Loire Valley, Provence, Bordeaux, Burgandy, Champagne, the Alps, and much more. Someday!
Androuet 6 rue Arsene-Houssaye, near the Arc de Triomphe. (01 42 89 95 00) According to the Zagat Survey, this is a "temple to cheese". I really enjoyed this restaurant. The waiters couldn't have been nicer, for one thing, and it had a very authentically old world French atmosphere. My waiter brought over the cheese tray laden with cheeses from all over France, and he helpfully explained to me about each cheese, where it was from, if it was mild or strong, etc. The mesclun salad was delicious as well.
Fouquet's 99 av. des Champs-Elysees (01 47 23 70 60) This restaurant is right on the Champs Elysees and boasts a large terrace that is perfect for people-watching. It has long been a favorite with tourists and show biz types. Its décor is classic, with lots of wood paneling and red Victorian walls covered with black and white photos of celebrities, living and dead, and mostly French. I had a typical French dish of roast lamb, with mashed potatos, and green beans, and it was delicious. As in many restaurants, the tables were too close together (my pet peeve!)
Grand Café 4 bvd des Capuchines (01 43 12 19 00)This Belle Epoque restaurant which was close to my hotel (Jardin Cusset Opera, which I cannot recommend) near the old Opera House, was a very nice experience. Although service was a bit slow (not unusual in France, since tips are already included in the bill), they were friendly and the food was delicious. Their specialty is seafood, and many couples ordered a huge plate of a wide variety of seafood such as crab, shrimp, lobster and oysters artfully arranged on a bed of ice strewn with bits of seaweed. It had a great outdoor terrace, again, perfect for people-watching. It's open 24 hours!
Jules Verne 2ndfloor of the Eiffel Tower (01 45 55 61 44) Location, location, location. This place has it! No wonder you must make reservations for dinner six months in advance, and four months in advance for lunch. An extra added bonus to dining here is that you skip the long lines to go up the Eiffel Tower. Of course the views are fantastic. The food was excellent as well, although my roast duckling was a tad undercooked, but that's nouvelle cuisine for you! It's a bit pricey, but not outrageous.
Le Pre Catalan Bois de Boulogne, route de Suresnes (01 44 14 41 14) Located in a beautiful manor in the middle of a forest in Paris, this restaurant is outstanding from everything I have heard. I wanted to go, but it just didn't work out on this trip. Perhaps next time! Listed in the top 40 restaurants in the Zagat Survey, coming in at 23.
Recommended Hotels:
Grand Hotel Jeanne d'Arc 3 rue Jarente ; Tel: 01 48 87 62 11 Centrally located in the lovely Marais district, near many museums and parks. Not far from the Seine River. Very reasonably priced.
Lutetia Concorde Hotel 45 boulevard Raspail ; Tel: 011-33-1-49-54-46-46, Fax: 011-33-1-49-54-46-00 Terrence Galenter, of Paris Through Expatriate Eyes, who organizes tours to Paris (Phone: 415-436-9370, www.parisexpat.com ), uses The Lutetia Hotel s as home base for his tours. It's near St. Germain-des-Pres and is considered first class.
Note: Can anyone suggest any excellent French hotels that are say, $200 or less per night, in a great location, like St. Germain-des-Pres, that offer stylish, clean rooms with TV & phone, room service, with decent-sized bathrooms, and the walls are not paper-thin? Inviting lobbies and on-premise restaurants a plus. Please e-mail wendy@best-of-sanfrancisco.com your first hand descriptions and recommendations.
Hot Tips Revisited!
Museum Pass- available in museums, for 1, 2, 3 or 5 days. A real bargain AND time-saver.
Bateau-Bus- great bargain for the most relaxing and scenic way to see Paris, cruising down the Seine. There are no tourguides, but there are other more expensive boatrides for that.
Great Guide Book: "Rick Steve's Paris 2000", published by John Muir Publications. This is a fun and very informative read, complete with maps of walking tours, restaurant and hotel recommendations, packed with useful, practical tips, some snippets of history and culture thrown in, and much, much more. Read it before you go, and bring it with you.
Great Restaurant Guide Book: "Zagat Survey 2000 /Paris Restaurants"- Thorough, concise, extremely informative and comprehensive guide to many, many restaurants in Paris, broken down into many convenient categories , such as Arrondissements (location), Romantic, Singles Scene, Outdoor Dining, Cheese, Nationality and so on, with hours, phone numbers, etc., etc. Excellent!
Great Book for Background Reading on the French: "A French Affair -- The Paris Beat 1965 - 1998" by Mary Blume. An excellent way to begin to understand the French people, their social history, their social mores and manners. Very entertaining, and enlightening.
Maps: "Streetwise Paris"- compact, thorough and easy to read. "MapEasy's Guidemap to Paris"- easy to read, and shows where a lot of stores, restaurants, and museums are, with bits of history and informative asides.
La Paz, Mexico, on the Baja peninsula, about 175 north of Cabo San Lucas, has long been a popular spot for scuba-diving enthusiasts. The town itself is rather quiet and non-touristy compared to Cabo San Lucas, and serves as the commercial hub of Baja Mexico.
The prices of things in La Paz are alot lower than in glitzy Cabo San Lucas. The nightlife is also very limited compared to Cabo. Carlos 'n Charlies offers up some tasty cuisine and is about the liveliest place at night.
There are really no sailboats to rent, as the winds there are not suited to sailing, and there are really no convenient places to rent horses for riding there, and so basically it's a place to just relax and/or explore the marine-life.
La Paz really is truly blessed with an abundance of marine-life, from the usual assortment of colorful tropical fish such as sargeant majors and moorish idols, to giant manta-rays with wingspans up to 24 feet wide, to schooling hammerhead sharks to colonies of sea lions. Although, the scuba divers are obviously the main focus of diving operations, snorkellers who tag along really can have incredible experiences, like I did.
My first marine-life encounter was at Los Islotes to snorkel with sea lions. This was through a snorkeling operation I encountered on the beach that lines the sleepy city, right in front of my hotel, Los Arcos. Through word of mouth, I was contacted the next day by a diving operation called Baja Diving and Service. They arranged for me to be picked up at my hotel and brought me out to join a diving group from Arizona that was going out to some of the reefs and various sites that are known for their abundant marine-life. It was a fabulous experience! I went out with them for two days in a row, and had close encounters with giant manta rays (even touched one!), and most incredibly, a huge whale shark. I was truly blessed, as many people search around the world for this experience, often at great expense, to have this kind of experience. Each day I went out, it was only $55, with an additional $5 on day two to cover the aircraft that helped us locate the whale sharks. Lunch and all the soft drinks you wanted were included. I don't know how long a bargain like this can last! By the way, other sightings included moray eels, octopus, and turtles.
My hotel Los Arcos was great. It was centrally located across from the beach, had two excellent pools, with poolside service, very comfortable, modern rooms with air conditioning, 27" color TV with free HBO, mini-service bar, and good-sized bathrooms, room service and several on-site restaurants, giftstore, and what more could you ask for? A reasonable price? Try $67! This was in September 1999.
At any rate, I highly recommend La Paz to marine-life enthusiasts, and to those seeking a very affordable, low-key Mexican vacation. There are nice, inexpensive busses you can take to explore some of small surrounding towns such as Todos Santos.
You will find the people there to be very helpful and warm. It's a great place to unwind.
FAST FACTS:
RECOMMENDED HOTEL: Los Arcos, 1-800-347-BAJA, right there, facing the beach within easy walking distance to restaurants, shops and diving operations. Excellent amenities.
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS: Carlos 'n Charlies right along the malecon (boulevard lining the beach) for Mexican cuisine as well as American specialities like hamburgers, etc. and The Hard Rock Café nearby for the same. For authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, El Bismark is the local favorite, at Calle Degollado and Altamirano; Phone:682/2-4854.
RECOMMENDED DIVE/SNORKEL OPERATION: Baja Diving & Service , right on the malecon (street lining the beach) at A. Obregon #1665-2, La Paz, B.C.S., 23000 Mexico ; Tel: 011-52-112-21826; Fax: 011-52-112-28644. This family-run operation couldn't be nicer or more helpful. Their rates are very reasonable.
AIRLINES serving La Paz from the US are limited to Alaska Airlines, and Aero California (1-800-258-3311) but only out of Los Angeles, San Diego and Phoenix. Check around. There may be some I don't know about.
If you haven't been to Las Vegas within the last couple of years, then you will be in for a multi-sensory treat when you go. Yes, the main industry in Las Vegas is gambling, however, now you can have absolutely no interest in gambling and yet have a wide variety of diversions to happily occupy your time.
There are so many unique, spectacular, glitzy and elegant hotels to explore, whether you're staying at one of them or not.
The first sense that will be overloaded is Sight. The developers have spared no expense in creating lavish, rich palaces doubling as hotels. Miles of beautiful, polished inlaid marble floors, and glittering crystal chandeliers will dazzle your eyes, along with humongous exotic floral displays, and rich detailed walls, ceilings and draperies. The ones that come to mind first are: The Venetian, with it's rich, Italianate décor, and canals plied with real Venetian gondolas and singing gondoliers; The Mandalay Bay with it's lush tropical southeast Asian colonial theme; The Bellagio with all the stores you'd find on Rodeo Drive; Ceasar's Palace with its spectacular Italian Forum shopping mall complete with a replica of the Fountain of Trevi; Paris Las Vegas, with it's Eiffel Tower, which as huge as it is, is exactly one half the size of the original Eiffel Tower in Paris; and The Mirage, with it's Polynesian tropical theme, and home to Siegfried and Roy's spectacular magic show featuring rare big cats, most notably, white tigers. The people-watching in Vegas is alot of fun, as well. Lots of outrageous, over-the-top kind of dressing. Vegas seems to bring out the Dolly Parton, Elvis or Elton John in many folks!
The second sense that is more than catered to is Taste and I guess Smell should be included here as well, as the third sense. There are now many high-quality, cutting edge restaurants to choose from, such as the Aureole in the Mandalay Bay.
The fourth sense that is addressed is Hearing, as there are entertainers singing and playing their instruments at many of the lounges, and the sound of the slot machines pouring out coins and ringing away.
And for the sense of Touch… there are many world-class spas here, offering a wide variety of massages and skin treatments, as well as beauty services. You had better book in advance, as they are popular. Most every hotel has huge pools, and the Mandalay Bay boast even a beach complete with sand and waves!
Shopping, which often encompasses all the senses, is fantastic here as there seems to be every store imaginable, from super high-end Chanel and Prada stores to very reasonable stores for clothes, shoes and jewelry, predominately.
There are many magic shows, headliner music concerts, comedians, etc. Plenty to do.
FAST FACTS:
Recommended Hotels and Toll-free Numbers ---
Wynn Resort Hotel / Casino 888-320-WYNN The new kid on the block! And with all the enthusiasm of someone eager to please! You'll find the service there very friendly and the resort has everything to please you-- great restaurants, spas, pools, bars, casino, a Cirque-style show right there ("La Reve", similar to "O"), and more. It's colorful, playful, luxurious and friendly-- a great combination. You may want to go for the excitement of Vegas or strictly for luxurious down-time, and you will find either or both here. Proud owner Steve Wynn can often be spotted escorting VIPs around the place. The Parosol bar is very popular and features a fabulously creative mulitmedia show that literally pops of of the water every hour or so. Rooms have floor to ceiling views. Enjoy it all at a reasonable cost.
Bellagio 888-987-6667 Richly beautiful, with lots of high end shopping. Everyone RAVES about the Cirque du Soleil's spectacular water show "O". In front of the hotel, there is a beautiful water display.
Caesars Palace 800-634-6001 Outstanding shopping here-- the best in Vegas! Roman streets are recreated with what seems to be a full-size Fountain of Trevi as the centerpiece. Beautiful "skies" (same kind featured in Paris-Las Vegas and The Venetian.) "Outdoor" cafes offers welcome respite from lots of walking. A full-scale replica of Michaelangelo's "David" is impressive.
Hard Rock Hotel 800-473-7625 Great nightlife, I've heard. Probably mostlyfor the young at heart (if not body!).
Mandalay Bay 877-632-7000 Elegant, lush tropical colonial décor. EXCELLENT restaurants, including the Aureole, which features a wine tower which a wine steward rappels up and down to retrieve bottles of wine ordered. Also has the very fun Red Square which features a bartop made of ice, and a huge variety of vodkas, as well as a very good menu. There are a few other excellent restaurants as well.Summertime fun here includes a huge beach with man-made waves.
MGM Grand 800-929-1111 Free Lion Habitat exhibition. Home of the revived great dance club of the 70's--Studio 54.
Mirage 800-627-6667 Home to the Siegfried & Roy Show with their royal tigers. White Tiger Habitat, which is free; also "The Secret Garden of Siefgried & Roy" which features dolphins, all kinds of rare and exotic big cats and elephants for $10. Lush Polynesian atmosphere throughout the hotel.
Paris 800-634-3434 Stands out with its half-scale Eiffel Tower, which features a restaurant on the second level of the tower. The mall inside is made to look like quaint Parisian streets, with a realistic sky overhead.
The Venetian 877-283-6423 Spectacular in it's Italianate-Venetian richly painted, draped and marbled décor sparkling with lavishly ornate Italian glass chandeliers. In the lobby, off to the right, is a hallway similar to The Sistine Chapel. The big draw is upstairs where the gondolas glide along the canals under bridges and past plazas truly reminiscent of Venice, with lots of "outdoor" cafes. There are also many enticing shops here as well, including Jimmy Choo Shoes (which are hard to find in the Bay Area), and other fashionable boutiques.
I'm sure some of the other hotels are great as well, but for now, these are the featured hotels.
All I can say is Viva Las Vegas!
Rent a London Flat for a Week: In the English Manner, a LA-based travel company, has more than 60 flats available in London's most fashionable neighborhoods, such as Knightsbridge, Chelsea, Belgravia, Mayfair and more; starting at $1050 for 7 nights for 1,2 and 3 bedroom flats. For a brochure or more info, contact 800-422-0799 or access their website at www.english-manner.com
Artic Circle Adventures offered by LA-based Nordique Tours. The "Swedish Lapland" package includes a night at the famous Ice Hotel where everything is made of ice, even the beds! For further information, contact Nordique Tours at 800-995-7997.
Ciao Travel offers a wide range of package trips to all the European jazz festivals, including the most famous one of all,The Montreux Jazz Festival, in Switzerland, which takes place from July 6 til 21 this year. Other festivals are the North Sea, Copenhagen, Jazz a Juan, on the French Riviera, and a Grand Tour package. You can get on their mailing list by going to www.ciaotravel.com, or calling 800-942-2426. They are a very reputable company and have been around for years.
Got questions? Ask wendy@sanfranciscoandbeyond.com!